Walking with my friends (and the usual
Saturday night crowds) on the main street
near Shilin Night Market
Saturday night crowds) on the main street
near Shilin Night Market
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Danger: Soft Rubber Shoes
Confusing, interesting, inappropriate, and funny English signs:
Do they sell upscale cakes and clothes?
The perfect spot to say "I swear I'll love you forever"
Calling for help if drowning is strictly forbidden
This sounds like an animated kids' movie, not a company
You can't carry birds into the metro, but can you strap them to your legs?
(see Australia for details: http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2009/feb
If you are wearing faded rolled-up jeans with white socks and red crocs, you have bigger problems than your toes getting stuck in the escalator
This little cell phone guy gets me every time- I think he's so cute.
Then again, I stare at him as I answer my phone loudly in English.
I'm often tempted to chew gum illegally...
"Hey! No eating allowed!
You don't know this rule? Are you an alien?"
You don't know this rule? Are you an alien?"
"Sorry...
I am an alien"
A restaurant rooted in history: founded in 2002
I've never seen guard penguins before: "Pedestrians only"Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Campus: National Chengchi University (NCCU)
view of the hills from the heart of campus
i have a craving to watch shakespeare whenever i sit here
i call these the pink towers
the track/field- home to golf practice every morning
in front of the administration building
palm trees! yes, i go to school on a tropical island
(i wish someone would remind the weather of that- it's been freezing lately!)
a gazebo you would not find at georgetown
the library
requisite stone lion to guard the library's books
requisite stone lion to guard the library's books
a pretty garden on the edge of campus
Saturday, March 28, 2009
And When the Thrill Dies, What Then?
The honeymoon is over.
I’ve been kept up til 2am by the unceasing cries of a yippy little dog from several stories below. I’ve been woken up by a combination of the cockadoodledos from the roosters that live in a pen across the street and the noisy machinery of the construction crews that are constantly at work behind my building. When I get up early to study for Chinese tests I find huge red bug bites on my arms that make me think I’m allergic to the mosquitoes here. I’ve been chastised for not taking out my trash often enough and for not separately it properly (into paper, plastic, and glass recycling, organic trash, and general trash). I’ve learned that restrooms on campus are often dirtier than those in American gas stations.
However, C.S. Lewis once wrote: “Thrills come at the beginning and do not last... The thrill you feel on first seeing some delightful place dies away when you really go to live there. Does this mean it would be better... not to live in the beautiful place? By no means... if you go through with it, the dying away of the first thrill will be compensated for by a quieter and more lasting kind of interest.” (Mere Christianity)
Even as the romanticism burns away, new blessings are visible through the smoke. I’ve already written some about my friends and my church so I want to introduce you to my home and my school.
My apartment building is new and really nice. We’ve got three security guards on rotation who take turns watching the security cameras that used to show me fixing my hair in the elevator’s mirrored walls before one of them teased me about it. We have short chats as I leave the building and return home- a few nights ago one of the security guards taught me the Chinese word for umbrella and I taught him the English. As you walk into the lobby and pass the security guard’s desk, you come to the workout room (complete with ping-pong table), the waiting area featuring 70s-style avocado green couches and an artificial pink-and-silver Christmas tree (it’s not uncommon to leave Christmas decorations up all year round in shops and restaurants here), a kids’ play area with little plastic slide, and a business meeting room with small square tables and chairs.
I live on one of the highest floors and my apartment is quite big and really comfortable. When you walk into my place you’re standing in the L shaped “great room” with the dining room in front of you, the kitchen beyond that, and the living room to your right. I have awesome views of a forested hill from the huge windows in my living room and bedroom. My bedroom’s a good size and I love having my own bathroom connected to it. There are 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms in my place but so far my landlord hasn’t found anyone else to rent the other bedroom (it’s very small) and I don’t mind. I’m enjoying the freedom of having the place to myself- I can cook, come and go as I please, sing out loud. =)
Cooking has been fun- I’ve made Korean kimchee stew (thanks Anabelle and Ashley) and refried bean burritos (thanks Amanda). For a few mornings I “toasted” bread in my frying pan (which is faster than any toaster because my gas stove heats up like crazy- aka I usually end up burning the bread) and threw really sweet Taiwanese peanut butter on one slice and raspberry jam on another. Then I ran out of bread and decided to try frying up two leftover tortillas, putting pb on one and j on the other, and folding them in half. That’s a combo I would never have tried in the States but it’s all “Western food” here. It’s actually quite good! Last week I made french toast and bacon (not as good as my dad’s brunch, but how could it be?), baked cinnamon oatmeal cookies in my brand-new toaster oven, and made rice in a rice cooker for the first time as part of a pork and bokchoy with soy sauce/Korean spicy sauce concoction.
My favorite part of living alone is being able to have friends over. A couple of weekends ago I went out to dinner with friends (to an “Italian noodle” place where I always order smoked chicken and ham with white sauce over rotini, all baked with cheese on top) and then brought them back to my place to watch a movie. Everyone lingered talking till almost midnight- it was so fun. That night I invited three different groups of friends who hadn’t met each other and I was thrilled that they all got along and had a good time.
Another great thing is that I have my own washing machine! It’s out on my deck, along with a metal bar where I hang my clean clothes on hangers to dry. In Italy I dreaded trekking to and from the laundromat with my heavy duffel bag full of clothes and then hanging my laundry out the attic window with clothespins, so I really appreciate how easy it is to do laundry here! I don’t have a dryer but I prefer to let my clothes dry naturally anyway. I do have a dish dryer though- a little machine above my sink that heats up and dries my hand-washed dishes. I never knew such an invention existed or was needed but I guess it’s useful in a humid climate.
I feel like I’m living in a high rise in the country- next to my building there’s an old canal with a river running through it, and the house across the street definitely has an outhouse. I’m not living on the main street where most of the restaurants and shops are (it’s a 10 minute walk from my door down the hill to the main gates of my university/the main street), but I like living partway up the mountain and seeing nature from my window. This district of Taipei is older than most areas of the city, and pretty run-down in parts, but my apartment is like an oasis- definitely a blessing from God.
Now onto school- I had a hard first day because I was placed in a level that didn’t feel challenging. The next day I tried out a higher level and really liked the class. My classmates include Japanese, Turkish, Irish, Korean, and German guys, another American girl, and a Finnish girl, Ulla. Ulla and I became friends (along with a German girl, Maren) on my birthday- we met after taking the placement test and then went out to lunch. I’m also good friends with the Korean and German guys, Shizhen and Robert- Ulla and I actually recruited them! Robert is Maren’s friend and Ulla and I had coffee with him and Shizhen after the second day of class. We told them how much we liked our teacher, and they complained about theirs, so they switched classes and attended ours the next day!
Our teacher is a petite 32 year-old who looks like Reese Witherspoon with glasses. The class is entirely in Chinese, besides the occasional English translation of a new vocab word. We have class from 12-3 each day, with 2 ten-minute breaks at 1 and 2. The cashiers at the 7/11 across the street from the
Each week we do a new chapter of our textbook- so far we’ve studied “I love performances,” “Be careful of bad habits,” “Relationship stuff,” and “Women’s social status is not the same.” Our class has a lot of fun creating our own stories/skits using the new words we’ve learned and watching tragic Chinese movies and cheesy Chinese music videos. I have more homework than in
The second week of class I took a free course from 11-12 each morning on bopomofo, a phonetic system used in
I’m also auditing an interesting course taught in English: American Sports History. I think it’s kind of funny that the professor and I are the only Americans in the class. This week he taught us about the first baseball clubs in
I like settling into student life here, although I don’t have as much time alone as when I was “on vacation.” During my first weeks of class I kind of overdosed on being with people. I do like making new friends and hanging out with them, but I also have an introvert side that craves alone time to read, write, pray, listen to music, cook/bake, and of course watch the first season of Everwood on DVD. So lately I’ve been setting aside time to be by myself and it’s been really good.
I’ll end with the second half of the C.S Lewis quote I used at the beginning of this post: “What is more (and I can hardly find words to tell you how important I think this), it is just the people who are ready to submit to the loss of the thrill and settle down to the sober interest, who are then most likely to meet new thrills in some quite different direction... the man who has settled down to live in the beauty spot will discover gardening.” Right now I’m enjoying my routine and looking forward to new thrills!
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Lanterns, Night Markets, and a Birthday
I've been in Taiwan for more than a month and in my apartment for almost 2 weeks! That means that the "everything is new" awe I had when I first arrived is being replaced by a feeling of ownership (now I have "my neighborhood" and "my campus") and growing friendships.
But first I promised to talk about the Lantern Festival. Two weeks ago the plazas surrounding Sun Yat-sen (the first president of the Republic of China in 1912) Memorial Hall filled up with lanterns and people. There were some old-fashioned, round paper lanterns like the kind I had been expecting hanging from the eaves of Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall itself, but mostly the lanterns were huge and shaped like cows/oxen (because 2009 is the year of the cow/ox) or pandas (because the Taipei Zoo is incredibly proud of their two pandas) and they were arranged on floats like parade floats. Most of the floats were created by elementary, junior, or high schools while a few were sponsored by businesses. Some of them were cute, many were strange, and all of them were entertaining. I went to the Lantern Festival with Tiffany one night and with Amanda and my host mom the next. It was really cool to participate in a traditional Taiwanese festival and admire the lanterns with hundreds of other people!
And now for another promise: night markets. One of my favorite things to do with friends (Tiffany, my church friends (who are Indonesian, Colombian, and Taiwanese), and my new friends Ulla, from Finland, and Maren, from Germany) is go to night markets. Taiwan is famous for its night markets: sprawling open-air markets that offer a dazzling array of clothes, trinkets, and food until about midnight. A night market includes established shops whose wares (shoes packaged in plastic wrap so they don't get dirty, t-shirts plastered with broken English, cell phone accessories, and umbrellas) spill out onto the streets, some of which become pedestrian-only while in others cars and scooters weave their way through the crowds. Some brave/crazy people set up shop in the middle of the street, selling sweatshirts off of blankets. Most importantly, night markets feature hundreds of carts from which entrepreneurs sell culinary specialties such as fried dumplings (careful! these are so hot that they will literally burn the skin off the roof of your mouth and make your mouth hurt for a week), candied strawberries and cherry tomatoes on a stick (I would not recommend the tomatoes- I still don't buy into the Taiwanese view that they're a fruit and thus a dessert), pig skin (tastes sort of like pork but is really chewy), pork sandwiches (they carve the meat off of a hanging carcass after you order), wraps with veggies, dried meat powder, and cilantro (a popular Taiwanese flavor), fluffy cakes smaller than your palm with red bean paste inside them (which is actually really good and might just convince me that red bean is a dessert- though red bean ice cream is still pretty weird), Taiwanese hamburgers (the "bun" is fluffy and white and inside there's meat, veggies, and cilantro), a flaky, crunchy sesame roll with a sweet filling, little donut hole-type things with vanilla pudding inside, and my favorite- deep fat fried mushrooms! You can choose from several kinds of mushrooms that I've never seen before, and they fry them up fresh while you wait and then shake a kind of cajun powder on them. You eat them out of a little McDonald's fries-type bag with a toothpick. Delicious!
I've been to four different night markets so far. The most famous one in Taipei- Shilin- was so crowded the first time I went that most of the time we couldn't move at all because of the pedestrian traffic jam. It's in situations like that (and rush hour on the metro) that I really like being a head taller than most people here so I can see and breathe above the crowd. Shilin also has a covered market which reminds me of the market in Antigua, Guatemala except that this one features an arcade and a pet store with adorable puppies in deplorable conditions- puppies that are too young crowded into cages that are too small. Gongguan and Shida are night markets in downtown Taipei near two of the best universities in Taiwan (my school, Chengchi Daxue, ranks with them in the top three) that have a fun, young atmosphere and aren't as crowded as Shilin. My favorite store (so far) in Taipei is in the Gongguan night market- it's a stationary store with cute cards and notebooks and post-its and on and on. I could spend hours just browsing. =) I also went to a night market in Shulin, the town where Amanda's teacher lives (a 45 min. train ride away from Taipei). I liked that night market a lot because it felt authentic- the whole town, young and old, comes out at night to walk through the streets and eat dinner or a snack from the food carts.
So, more about my friends: I spent last Thursday with my friend Tiffany and 5 of her friends (2 girls and 3 guys) and practiced Chinese (mostly listening!) for 11 hours with them. First we went to Yingge, a town a 40 min. train ride away from Taipei that's famous for its pottery and its cobblestone "Old Street" which reminds me a little of Europe. We had lunch (beef and noodle soup) and then made our own pottery (each person sat at their own potter's wheel). I made a big coffee mug that will be glazed espresso brown with a golden stripe in the middle. The pottery place will send us our pieces once they're fired. After wandering through Yingge a little, we headed back to Taipei to the "Apartment Cafe," which reminds me of the Tea Room in Siena, my favorite hangout there, because it has a cozy atmosphere. We sat downstairs on the patio (next to old bookcases filled with old books) and I ordered a pot of Earl Gray milk tea and shared a waffle topped with honey, fruit, and whipped cream with Tiffany. Then we shared a birthday cake that Tiffany had bought for me (it was called "Gateau boston au chocolat" and had chocolate mousse inside) and they even lit 4 candles on top -2 each for 22- and sang Happy Birthday to me in Chinese! They also gave me a birthday card that Tiffany had made and in which everyone had written a message in English. It was all really sweet.
I also love to hang out with the friends I've made at church: Joni, Felly, Teo, Harki, Tetuko, and Tirza (all Indonesian), Lisa, Sandy, Ashley (Taiwanese), and Daniel (Colombian). I met some of them my first week at church but it wasn't until Valentine's Day when Lisa's parents May and Jack invited me over with other students/young people that I really got to know them. We had so much fun- we each had to introduce ourselves in our second language so I had to use Chinese, though most of the day I spoke English (since some of the Indonesian students just came to Taiwan in September to study engineering in English and so they don't speak much Chinese yet). A few people brought guitars and Tirza played piano and we had a Valentine's themed sing-along with love songs like The Lion King's "Can you feel the love tonight?" Haha it was awesome- I've always said that I wished I lived in an era where friends just gathered around the piano to sing together, and that's what we did! Then we played Pictionary in English, which was hilarious not only because of poor drawing skills (like mine!) but because nobody but me was a native English speaker, and so when the word was "graffiti" everyone drew giraffes (I've never realized how alike those words look!). Next we had a huge dinner with homemade Taiwanese dishes and Domino's pizza (I had a piece of the Supreme and it tasted basically like pizza in the States). Lastly we played a game I'd never played before- it's like Charades meets Telephone. I suggested we make it a competition, so we formed two lines facing the front door, and the last two people in line turned around and read a word that Jack had written down. Then they each tapped the next person in line who turned around and watched the first people try to act out the word. Those people then tapped the next person and tried to imitate the first people acting out the word. And so the charade traveled down the line until the last person in line had to guess what the word was. It sounds a little confusing, and it is, as we learned when the word "Batman" ended up looking like a crying penguin. Don't ask me how that happened- we each blamed the person before us in line!
A few of us got together this past weekend to go to "Video Games Live": the biggest video game music concert ever, performed by the Taipei Symphony Orchestra and Chorus. It was a free outdoor concert at Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, in a plaza between several impressive temple-looking buildings with red roofs that commemorate Taiwan's former dictator and head of the Kuomingtang government. My favorite songs were a Mario Brothers sequence (classic) and the theme to Metal Gear (sad epic tune with battle drums). Then on my birthday, this past Monday the 23rd, eight of us went out to dinner at Forkers, one of my favorite restaurants here. When Tiffany introduced me and Amanda to this awesome burger-and-salad place a few weeks ago we met the owner, Joe, and found out he's half American and half Canadian, which explains why Forkers food tastes like good Western food (unlike the "Italian noodles" that are served everywhere but don't taste Italian). We laughed our way through dinner as we tend to do and they gave me a cute birthday card shaped like a castle that they had all signed and sang Happy Birthday to me in Indonesian, Spanish, Chinese, and English! A linguistics major's dream! I had made chocolate-covered strawberries for dessert so we ate those at a picnic table on the patio. It was awesome celebrating my 22nd birthday with them! One of my prayers before coming to Taiwan was that I would have friends to celebrate my birthday with and God definitely answered my prayer.
I'll have to talk about my apartment, neighborhood, and campus (classes start on Monday by the way) in the next post. Until then, I'll leave you with words I read everyday: my sheets say "Memory, Beauty," my comforter says "Lucky. Your Confidence," and my pillow says "True Love is Power, Forget Not Your Friends."
But first I promised to talk about the Lantern Festival. Two weeks ago the plazas surrounding Sun Yat-sen (the first president of the Republic of China in 1912) Memorial Hall filled up with lanterns and people. There were some old-fashioned, round paper lanterns like the kind I had been expecting hanging from the eaves of Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall itself, but mostly the lanterns were huge and shaped like cows/oxen (because 2009 is the year of the cow/ox) or pandas (because the Taipei Zoo is incredibly proud of their two pandas) and they were arranged on floats like parade floats. Most of the floats were created by elementary, junior, or high schools while a few were sponsored by businesses. Some of them were cute, many were strange, and all of them were entertaining. I went to the Lantern Festival with Tiffany one night and with Amanda and my host mom the next. It was really cool to participate in a traditional Taiwanese festival and admire the lanterns with hundreds of other people!
And now for another promise: night markets. One of my favorite things to do with friends (Tiffany, my church friends (who are Indonesian, Colombian, and Taiwanese), and my new friends Ulla, from Finland, and Maren, from Germany) is go to night markets. Taiwan is famous for its night markets: sprawling open-air markets that offer a dazzling array of clothes, trinkets, and food until about midnight. A night market includes established shops whose wares (shoes packaged in plastic wrap so they don't get dirty, t-shirts plastered with broken English, cell phone accessories, and umbrellas) spill out onto the streets, some of which become pedestrian-only while in others cars and scooters weave their way through the crowds. Some brave/crazy people set up shop in the middle of the street, selling sweatshirts off of blankets. Most importantly, night markets feature hundreds of carts from which entrepreneurs sell culinary specialties such as fried dumplings (careful! these are so hot that they will literally burn the skin off the roof of your mouth and make your mouth hurt for a week), candied strawberries and cherry tomatoes on a stick (I would not recommend the tomatoes- I still don't buy into the Taiwanese view that they're a fruit and thus a dessert), pig skin (tastes sort of like pork but is really chewy), pork sandwiches (they carve the meat off of a hanging carcass after you order), wraps with veggies, dried meat powder, and cilantro (a popular Taiwanese flavor), fluffy cakes smaller than your palm with red bean paste inside them (which is actually really good and might just convince me that red bean is a dessert- though red bean ice cream is still pretty weird), Taiwanese hamburgers (the "bun" is fluffy and white and inside there's meat, veggies, and cilantro), a flaky, crunchy sesame roll with a sweet filling, little donut hole-type things with vanilla pudding inside, and my favorite- deep fat fried mushrooms! You can choose from several kinds of mushrooms that I've never seen before, and they fry them up fresh while you wait and then shake a kind of cajun powder on them. You eat them out of a little McDonald's fries-type bag with a toothpick. Delicious!
I've been to four different night markets so far. The most famous one in Taipei- Shilin- was so crowded the first time I went that most of the time we couldn't move at all because of the pedestrian traffic jam. It's in situations like that (and rush hour on the metro) that I really like being a head taller than most people here so I can see and breathe above the crowd. Shilin also has a covered market which reminds me of the market in Antigua, Guatemala except that this one features an arcade and a pet store with adorable puppies in deplorable conditions- puppies that are too young crowded into cages that are too small. Gongguan and Shida are night markets in downtown Taipei near two of the best universities in Taiwan (my school, Chengchi Daxue, ranks with them in the top three) that have a fun, young atmosphere and aren't as crowded as Shilin. My favorite store (so far) in Taipei is in the Gongguan night market- it's a stationary store with cute cards and notebooks and post-its and on and on. I could spend hours just browsing. =) I also went to a night market in Shulin, the town where Amanda's teacher lives (a 45 min. train ride away from Taipei). I liked that night market a lot because it felt authentic- the whole town, young and old, comes out at night to walk through the streets and eat dinner or a snack from the food carts.
So, more about my friends: I spent last Thursday with my friend Tiffany and 5 of her friends (2 girls and 3 guys) and practiced Chinese (mostly listening!) for 11 hours with them. First we went to Yingge, a town a 40 min. train ride away from Taipei that's famous for its pottery and its cobblestone "Old Street" which reminds me a little of Europe. We had lunch (beef and noodle soup) and then made our own pottery (each person sat at their own potter's wheel). I made a big coffee mug that will be glazed espresso brown with a golden stripe in the middle. The pottery place will send us our pieces once they're fired. After wandering through Yingge a little, we headed back to Taipei to the "Apartment Cafe," which reminds me of the Tea Room in Siena, my favorite hangout there, because it has a cozy atmosphere. We sat downstairs on the patio (next to old bookcases filled with old books) and I ordered a pot of Earl Gray milk tea and shared a waffle topped with honey, fruit, and whipped cream with Tiffany. Then we shared a birthday cake that Tiffany had bought for me (it was called "Gateau boston au chocolat" and had chocolate mousse inside) and they even lit 4 candles on top -2 each for 22- and sang Happy Birthday to me in Chinese! They also gave me a birthday card that Tiffany had made and in which everyone had written a message in English. It was all really sweet.
I also love to hang out with the friends I've made at church: Joni, Felly, Teo, Harki, Tetuko, and Tirza (all Indonesian), Lisa, Sandy, Ashley (Taiwanese), and Daniel (Colombian). I met some of them my first week at church but it wasn't until Valentine's Day when Lisa's parents May and Jack invited me over with other students/young people that I really got to know them. We had so much fun- we each had to introduce ourselves in our second language so I had to use Chinese, though most of the day I spoke English (since some of the Indonesian students just came to Taiwan in September to study engineering in English and so they don't speak much Chinese yet). A few people brought guitars and Tirza played piano and we had a Valentine's themed sing-along with love songs like The Lion King's "Can you feel the love tonight?" Haha it was awesome- I've always said that I wished I lived in an era where friends just gathered around the piano to sing together, and that's what we did! Then we played Pictionary in English, which was hilarious not only because of poor drawing skills (like mine!) but because nobody but me was a native English speaker, and so when the word was "graffiti" everyone drew giraffes (I've never realized how alike those words look!). Next we had a huge dinner with homemade Taiwanese dishes and Domino's pizza (I had a piece of the Supreme and it tasted basically like pizza in the States). Lastly we played a game I'd never played before- it's like Charades meets Telephone. I suggested we make it a competition, so we formed two lines facing the front door, and the last two people in line turned around and read a word that Jack had written down. Then they each tapped the next person in line who turned around and watched the first people try to act out the word. Those people then tapped the next person and tried to imitate the first people acting out the word. And so the charade traveled down the line until the last person in line had to guess what the word was. It sounds a little confusing, and it is, as we learned when the word "Batman" ended up looking like a crying penguin. Don't ask me how that happened- we each blamed the person before us in line!
A few of us got together this past weekend to go to "Video Games Live": the biggest video game music concert ever, performed by the Taipei Symphony Orchestra and Chorus. It was a free outdoor concert at Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, in a plaza between several impressive temple-looking buildings with red roofs that commemorate Taiwan's former dictator and head of the Kuomingtang government. My favorite songs were a Mario Brothers sequence (classic) and the theme to Metal Gear (sad epic tune with battle drums). Then on my birthday, this past Monday the 23rd, eight of us went out to dinner at Forkers, one of my favorite restaurants here. When Tiffany introduced me and Amanda to this awesome burger-and-salad place a few weeks ago we met the owner, Joe, and found out he's half American and half Canadian, which explains why Forkers food tastes like good Western food (unlike the "Italian noodles" that are served everywhere but don't taste Italian). We laughed our way through dinner as we tend to do and they gave me a cute birthday card shaped like a castle that they had all signed and sang Happy Birthday to me in Indonesian, Spanish, Chinese, and English! A linguistics major's dream! I had made chocolate-covered strawberries for dessert so we ate those at a picnic table on the patio. It was awesome celebrating my 22nd birthday with them! One of my prayers before coming to Taiwan was that I would have friends to celebrate my birthday with and God definitely answered my prayer.
I'll have to talk about my apartment, neighborhood, and campus (classes start on Monday by the way) in the next post. Until then, I'll leave you with words I read everyday: my sheets say "Memory, Beauty," my comforter says "Lucky. Your Confidence," and my pillow says "True Love is Power, Forget Not Your Friends."
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Tidbits
"IS COFFEE" reads the Christmas-colored sign behind me, marking the coffee shop where I just enjoyed a strong cup of Caffe Americano. What "is coffee"? My post-lunch pick-me-up, or happiness, or just the pursuit thereof? I've discovered my favorite new hangout: a triangle-shaped park lined on two sides by tall palm trees and nestled in the shadow of five-story apartment buildings. My park bench, forest green metal and plastic made to look like wood, could be in any park in the world if it weren't for the red Chinese characters that mark it the property of Taipei. Preschool kids are shrieking gleefully from the playground on the right while the fountain in front of me gurgles hurriedly, in marked contrast to the college student across the way who's sitting slumped forward with one hand on his forehead and the other on his ipod.
Since it's one block off the main road, I wouldn't have known this park existed if I hadn't gone to church the other day at one corner of its triangle. Friendship Presbyterian Church's name is 100% Taiwanese English, a sweeter version of the t-shirts that assert "I'm cool" or label one as a "Gorgeous Girl." Amanda and I, having sought out its English service, stared doubtfully at its doors as hundreds of Taiwanese poured out at ten to eleven on Sunday morning. Unsure of how to proceed, we were relieved to see an older white woman (Amanda excitedly whispered "Waiguoren!" -foreigner- in a perfect imitation of the reaction we provoke in some parts of Taipei) whom we promptly followed into the building and up the curved staircase into the sanctuary, where we were given an English bulletin by a young woman too embarrassed to speak English to us. We sang hymns and did a lot of reading aloud together (a "Confession of Sin and our Dependence on God," "Our Father," the Apostles' Creed, and the Scripture reading for the day- the Parable of the Prodigal Son), and, almost to my surprise, I found myself liking the richness of the tradition, all of us joining to sing or speak words that have been spoken or sung for centuries if not millennia. I loved the fiery sermon about how there are two ways to get lost- by being bad like the Prodigal Son or by being good like his older brother- and how God loves both kinds of lost people with such a reckless love that he died (and rose again) so that we could be found. After church we joined in the coffee =o) hour and talked in a mix of Chinese and English with a few Americans, Taiwanese church members, and several Singaporean engineering majors. Some of them took us out to lunch at a Korean restaurant where Amanda and I enjoyed getting to know them a little. We liked FPC a lot and are definitely planning on going back.
This morning I narrowly avoided getting run over by several bikes, and I asked for a cow with my coffee. Just another day in Taipei. I was awoken at 8:22 by the jackhammers removing the outer layer of the wall outside my window, but besides the noise I've had a relaxing week-long stay with my awesome "host mom." I've enjoyed going with her to the observation deck of Taipei 101 (which is the world's tallest building with 101 stories) by way of the world's fastest passenger elevator and to the National Palace Museum, which houses ancient Chinese treasures (my favorites were the colorful clay bowls from the Song dynasty). My "host mom" is also a wonderful cook and every morning I'm greeted by a big breakfast. A few days it's been a Martha Stewart recipe: oatmeal topped with cinnamon, toasted almonds, flaxseed, raisins, and dried cherries and blueberries, as well as a plate of papaya, banana, and bell fruit. That's all washed down with Florida orange juice and homemade tea steeped in rosebuds, dates, and dried loganberries. That's just one breakfast among many, and it would take too long to describe the feasts that are dinners! Needless to say, I'm being spoiled before I start living on my own.
A few lessons I've learned so far:
-That boisterously noisy parade (complete with what sounds like the Chinese version of bagpipes) coming down the street is actually a traditional funeral, and if you run after the tantalizing ice-cream truck melody you hear in the evenings, you'll find that it's only the garbage truck announcing its nightly rounds.
-There is a 7/11 (or at least a sign directing you to the nearest one) on every street corner. These are the nicest convenience stores you've ever been in (with stacks of Red Sox playing cards at the registers- they heard I was coming) and most include ATMs, cheap cappuccino, little bakeries, fish balls floating in hot water, and/or a counter at the window to eat said fish balls.
-Something as mundane as walking down the sidewalk can be a bit of an adventure. In my soon-to-be neighborhood around Zheng Da (my soon-to-be school) the sidewalks hardly fit two people across and I constantly have to duck under the dozens of bus stop signs for the dozens of different bus lines that criss-cross the city. However, in the neighborhood where I'm currently living, in a more central part of the city, there are two sidewalks on each side of the main roads: pedestrians walk on one made of tile or marble that is sheltered from the sun by the buildings above, while scooters and bikes own the uneven cement sidewalk right next to it that's out in the open. Hundreds of scooters are parked along the major roads on the scooter sidewalks, but I tend to like to walk there to soak in the sun (the weather here has been gorgeous, low to mid 70s), so I keep having terrifying run-ins. There are as many scooters as cars on the road, which leads to my next lesson...
-Crossing the road is not as easy as the chicken made it sound. The Taiwanese have gone to great lengths to avoid crossing the road, by building skywalks and pedestrian tunnels over and under the busiest intersections. If you do need to actually cross a street, don't be tricked into thinking that the little green man walking briskly with the bomb-like countdown '60' '59' '58' flashing above his head means that you as a pedestrian have the right of way. What he means is that you have the right to rush into the road while looking franticly over your shoulder at the bikes, scooters, cars, and trucks that are making rapid right turns right into you.
-"Buhaoyisi!" (How embarrassing!) is like sprinkling sparkles over a bad situation, in the wise words of Amanda. Say you bump into a guy on the MRT (metro), or need to squeeze past a woman in a crowded market, or are told in a jewelry shop that you can't try on earrings once you already have, or missed a friend's call because your cellphone battery died- in all of these cases and many more, simply utter the magic phrase "Buhaoyisi!" to soften frowns and prevent people from saying "Mei you limao!" (No manners!).
-Always ask your friend's security guard how big a ping is. The answer you're looking for is that the Chinese unit of measurement is 36 square feet, but he just might ask you why you need to know, and if you tell him you're looking for a nearby apartment to rent, he just might go to the paper recycling bin and dig out a crumpled flyer from which he might tear a phone number and the name Mr. Wu. If you call that number, you may end up looking at (and subsequently renting) a spacious, brand-new apartment on the ninth floor of a building that also has a security guard. This apartment may feature a bedroom that has a huge window on one wall with a lovely view of a mountain as well as its own bathroom. Then again, if you ask your friend's security guard how big a ping is, he may just tell you 36 square feet.
I think the culture shock may be beginning, if it's a sudden craving for all things American. Even though McDonalds and Starbucks weren't a part of my daily life in the States, I'm tempted to frequent these "American Embassies" just to be on American (cultural) soil. It's like Pico Iyer says in his book "Global Soul":
The process of interacting with a place is a little like the rite of a cocktail party, at which, upon being introduced to a stranger, we cast about to find a name, a place, a person we might have in common.
However, then I go to the Lantern Festival (which I'll describe next time) and I'm awed by this bright new culture. Who knows what the next 6 months will bring?
Since it's one block off the main road, I wouldn't have known this park existed if I hadn't gone to church the other day at one corner of its triangle. Friendship Presbyterian Church's name is 100% Taiwanese English, a sweeter version of the t-shirts that assert "I'm cool" or label one as a "Gorgeous Girl." Amanda and I, having sought out its English service, stared doubtfully at its doors as hundreds of Taiwanese poured out at ten to eleven on Sunday morning. Unsure of how to proceed, we were relieved to see an older white woman (Amanda excitedly whispered "Waiguoren!" -foreigner- in a perfect imitation of the reaction we provoke in some parts of Taipei) whom we promptly followed into the building and up the curved staircase into the sanctuary, where we were given an English bulletin by a young woman too embarrassed to speak English to us. We sang hymns and did a lot of reading aloud together (a "Confession of Sin and our Dependence on God," "Our Father," the Apostles' Creed, and the Scripture reading for the day- the Parable of the Prodigal Son), and, almost to my surprise, I found myself liking the richness of the tradition, all of us joining to sing or speak words that have been spoken or sung for centuries if not millennia. I loved the fiery sermon about how there are two ways to get lost- by being bad like the Prodigal Son or by being good like his older brother- and how God loves both kinds of lost people with such a reckless love that he died (and rose again) so that we could be found. After church we joined in the coffee =o) hour and talked in a mix of Chinese and English with a few Americans, Taiwanese church members, and several Singaporean engineering majors. Some of them took us out to lunch at a Korean restaurant where Amanda and I enjoyed getting to know them a little. We liked FPC a lot and are definitely planning on going back.
This morning I narrowly avoided getting run over by several bikes, and I asked for a cow with my coffee. Just another day in Taipei. I was awoken at 8:22 by the jackhammers removing the outer layer of the wall outside my window, but besides the noise I've had a relaxing week-long stay with my awesome "host mom." I've enjoyed going with her to the observation deck of Taipei 101 (which is the world's tallest building with 101 stories) by way of the world's fastest passenger elevator and to the National Palace Museum, which houses ancient Chinese treasures (my favorites were the colorful clay bowls from the Song dynasty). My "host mom" is also a wonderful cook and every morning I'm greeted by a big breakfast. A few days it's been a Martha Stewart recipe: oatmeal topped with cinnamon, toasted almonds, flaxseed, raisins, and dried cherries and blueberries, as well as a plate of papaya, banana, and bell fruit. That's all washed down with Florida orange juice and homemade tea steeped in rosebuds, dates, and dried loganberries. That's just one breakfast among many, and it would take too long to describe the feasts that are dinners! Needless to say, I'm being spoiled before I start living on my own.
A few lessons I've learned so far:
-That boisterously noisy parade (complete with what sounds like the Chinese version of bagpipes) coming down the street is actually a traditional funeral, and if you run after the tantalizing ice-cream truck melody you hear in the evenings, you'll find that it's only the garbage truck announcing its nightly rounds.
-There is a 7/11 (or at least a sign directing you to the nearest one) on every street corner. These are the nicest convenience stores you've ever been in (with stacks of Red Sox playing cards at the registers- they heard I was coming) and most include ATMs, cheap cappuccino, little bakeries, fish balls floating in hot water, and/or a counter at the window to eat said fish balls.
-Something as mundane as walking down the sidewalk can be a bit of an adventure. In my soon-to-be neighborhood around Zheng Da (my soon-to-be school) the sidewalks hardly fit two people across and I constantly have to duck under the dozens of bus stop signs for the dozens of different bus lines that criss-cross the city. However, in the neighborhood where I'm currently living, in a more central part of the city, there are two sidewalks on each side of the main roads: pedestrians walk on one made of tile or marble that is sheltered from the sun by the buildings above, while scooters and bikes own the uneven cement sidewalk right next to it that's out in the open. Hundreds of scooters are parked along the major roads on the scooter sidewalks, but I tend to like to walk there to soak in the sun (the weather here has been gorgeous, low to mid 70s), so I keep having terrifying run-ins. There are as many scooters as cars on the road, which leads to my next lesson...
-Crossing the road is not as easy as the chicken made it sound. The Taiwanese have gone to great lengths to avoid crossing the road, by building skywalks and pedestrian tunnels over and under the busiest intersections. If you do need to actually cross a street, don't be tricked into thinking that the little green man walking briskly with the bomb-like countdown '60' '59' '58' flashing above his head means that you as a pedestrian have the right of way. What he means is that you have the right to rush into the road while looking franticly over your shoulder at the bikes, scooters, cars, and trucks that are making rapid right turns right into you.
-"Buhaoyisi!" (How embarrassing!) is like sprinkling sparkles over a bad situation, in the wise words of Amanda. Say you bump into a guy on the MRT (metro), or need to squeeze past a woman in a crowded market, or are told in a jewelry shop that you can't try on earrings once you already have, or missed a friend's call because your cellphone battery died- in all of these cases and many more, simply utter the magic phrase "Buhaoyisi!" to soften frowns and prevent people from saying "Mei you limao!" (No manners!).
-Always ask your friend's security guard how big a ping is. The answer you're looking for is that the Chinese unit of measurement is 36 square feet, but he just might ask you why you need to know, and if you tell him you're looking for a nearby apartment to rent, he just might go to the paper recycling bin and dig out a crumpled flyer from which he might tear a phone number and the name Mr. Wu. If you call that number, you may end up looking at (and subsequently renting) a spacious, brand-new apartment on the ninth floor of a building that also has a security guard. This apartment may feature a bedroom that has a huge window on one wall with a lovely view of a mountain as well as its own bathroom. Then again, if you ask your friend's security guard how big a ping is, he may just tell you 36 square feet.
I think the culture shock may be beginning, if it's a sudden craving for all things American. Even though McDonalds and Starbucks weren't a part of my daily life in the States, I'm tempted to frequent these "American Embassies" just to be on American (cultural) soil. It's like Pico Iyer says in his book "Global Soul":
The process of interacting with a place is a little like the rite of a cocktail party, at which, upon being introduced to a stranger, we cast about to find a name, a place, a person we might have in common.
However, then I go to the Lantern Festival (which I'll describe next time) and I'm awed by this bright new culture. Who knows what the next 6 months will bring?
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